Vendor Due Diligence for Beauty Brands

By Sébastien Clavier, COO at We-Curate. Has prepared valuations and investor materials for growth-stage companies and reviewed consumer brands for venture investors. Reviewed by Virginie Duchatelle, Founder & CEO.

Vendor due diligence is the work a seller does on their own business before a sale: finding what buyers will find, fixing or explaining it first, and putting a growth case in front of the market that has already been tested.

In beauty it matters more than in most categories. A large part of what a beauty brand is worth sits in things that are hard to prove quickly: brand equity, retailer relationships, whether demand will last. Buyers discount what they cannot verify. If you cannot evidence those things on the buyer’s timetable, you will watch them priced as risk.

Why sellers commission it

Three reasons come up again and again.

To remove the discount for uncertainty

Every question a buyer cannot get answered turns into an assumption, and buyers do not assume generously. A brand that can show sell-through, retention and its standing with retailers negotiates on facts. A brand that cannot is negotiating against the buyer’s worst reasonable case.

To control the sequence

A problem you find yourself gets handled on your timetable. The same problem found by the buyer in week three of exclusivity becomes leverage, and very often a reason to reopen the price.

To make the growth story believable

Every sale process comes with a plan for what the brand could become. Left unsupported, buyers read it as seller optimism and discount it accordingly. Tested independently, with the channel economics, timing and cost of expansion actually modeled, it becomes part of what they are paying for.

What it examines

Vendor due diligence looks at the same things a buyer will look at, in roughly the same order. The full list is in our guide to commercial due diligence for beauty brands. For a seller, these are the ones that move the price:

  1. Quality of growth: how much came from new doors, productivity per door, price and mix, and genuinely new consumers, and how much of each is still available
  2. Sell-through evidence: retailer point-of-sale data, inventory sitting at retail, returns and markdown history
  3. Concentration: by retailer, channel and product, with the downside modeled rather than described
  4. Retention: repeat purchase by cohort, not a blended average that hides the trend
  5. Pricing power: the share of volume sold at full price, and how it has moved
  6. Retail standing: terms, space over the last few seasons, and what category buyers really think of the brand
  7. Pipeline: what sits behind the hero product, and how far along it is
  8. The expansion case: whether national US scale or a move into Europe and the UK holds up on the plan’s own assumptions
  9. Regulatory position: claims, labeling and compliance in every market the plan relies on
  10. Key person dependency: and what the transition plan actually is

The findings nobody wants to hear

The whole point is to surface the uncomfortable things while there is still time to act. In beauty, they tend to look like this:

  • Shipments have been running ahead of consumer purchases, and a retail inventory correction is coming within two quarters
  • The largest retailer has been quietly cutting space, and nobody has modeled what one more cut does to the P&L
  • Almost all the growth came from new doors, and there are fewer doors left than the plan assumes
  • The European expansion in the plan needs reformulation, relabeling and a regulatory representative that nobody has scoped or costed
  • Gross margin is propped up by supplier terms or founder costs that will not survive the deal

None of these has to destroy value. Every one of them destroys a lot of it when the buyer finds it first.

When to start

Early enough to fix things. In beauty, that is earlier than most sellers think.

Some findings can be dealt with in a few weeks, mostly by getting better evidence together. Others take quarters: building a credible second retail pillar, getting repeat purchase back up after a period of heavy acquisition spend, finishing the regulatory work for a market in the plan. Start once the bank is appointed and you can only document where you are. Start a year earlier and you can still change it.

What sellers receive

  • An independent assessment, written to the standard a buyer’s investment committee will apply
  • A prioritized list of issues, sorted into what can be fixed, what should be explained and what simply has to be disclosed
  • A tested growth case with the economics modeled, so the plan in the information memorandum can be defended line by line
  • Diligence preparation: the data, evidence and answers ready before the questions arrive

Vendor and buy-side due diligence

Same business, opposite goals. Buy-side diligence protects the buyer from overpaying. Vendor diligence protects the seller from being underpaid for uncertainty that could have been cleared up.

The analysis is the same. What changes is the timing, and who gets to act on the findings first. The signals buyers test first are set out in the red flags we look for before a beauty brand acquisition. Read from the seller’s side, it is a checklist of what to fix.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is vendor due diligence?

Vendor due diligence is an independent assessment of a business commissioned by its owners before a sale, to identify and address the weaknesses buyers will find and to present an evidenced growth case.

How is vendor due diligence different from buy-side due diligence?

Both look at the same aspects of the business. Buy-side diligence is commissioned by the buyer to test the investment case before committing. Vendor diligence is commissioned by the seller, earlier, so findings can be dealt with before a buyer uses them as leverage.

When should a beauty brand start vendor due diligence?

Ideally around a year before a sale process. Some issues can be resolved with better evidence in weeks, but building a second retail pillar, improving repeat purchase or completing regulatory work for a new market takes quarters.

Does vendor due diligence increase the sale price?

It cannot guarantee a price. What it reduces is the discount buyers apply to uncertainty, by answering questions in advance and evidencing the growth case instead of asserting it.

Who commissions vendor due diligence on a beauty brand?

Usually a founder preparing to sell, or a private equity sponsor preparing to exit a portfolio brand.

Preparing a Beauty Brand for Sale

If a sale is on the horizon, the most valuable work happens before the process starts, while the findings are still yours.

How we support founders, funds and acquirers across the whole deal cycle is set out on our beauty brand due diligence and investment advisory page.

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Related reading: Commercial Due Diligence for Beauty Brands · The Red Flags We Look For Before a Beauty Brand Acquisition · Brand Value Creation in PE-Owned Beauty Portfolios